One of our writer tested her tastebuds with some dishes she’d never tried before. Intrigued by the concept of an authentic Spanish-Italian fusion, she headed over to the nearby Piatto.
Tiffany Limgenco reviews
1646 Dundas St W
When I got the green light to review Piatto, my mouth watered. The restaurant’s website bragged Italian classics mingled with Spanish flavours brought in by Madrid-born chef Carlos García. The marriage of flavours excited me. I had never heard of Spanish-Italian fusion before.
Late one Monday, my family and I pulled up to the restaurant, which was in a brick Victorian-style building on Dundas Street, just a few minutes from campus.
Opposite the foyer stood tables dressed in white linen, tall wine glasses, and sparkling silver cutlery. It seemed the snow and freezing rain that day had kept Mississauga’s residents at home. The place was empty. A chalkboard hanging on one wall listed the day’s specials. Against another stood a large, dark wooden shelf crammed with over a hundred bottles of wine. The wooden frames on the ancient windows gave the place a rustic feel. And a light yellow glow warmed each table.
The owner, Tom Skrela, greeted us, took our coats, and led us to a table by the window. Our server poured us water and read the specials. For such a fine dining place, I felt comfortable enough to slouch in my chair as the waiter made polite conversation with us.
When I flipped through the menu minutes later though, I found none of García’s Spanish fare on the menu.
“Chef García left us in October,” our server said. “Chef Abramo Tonelli runs our kitchen now. Everything is authentic Italian.”
We couldn’t leave. We were settled, served, and just about ready to order. I kissed my paella valenciana dreams goodbye and strapped in for a different kind of evening.
We began with steamed mussels in a tomato and white wine sauce. We paired that with a smoked salmon and avocado antipasti, a combination of salty and fresh with sweet and rich.
We each chose a different entrée from Chef Tonelli’s menu: thinly sliced veal cutlets wrapped in spinach and mozzarella, ground veal cannelloni in a rosé sauce, linguine with truffle oil and fresh shitake and oyster mushrooms, and risotto and mushrooms in cream sauce.
Each plate had layers of flavour, all balanced, all precise, and all just right. Each plate harmonized decadence and creativity. Each plate was a true foodie’s delight.
We finished the night with classic tiramisu, an inventive chocolate espresso pate, and a light, mousse-like mango cheesecake that I continue to dream about.
I may not have gotten to savour the flavours of Spain, but Piatto certainly did not disappoint. I enjoyed the thoughtful service, the delicious food, the warm atmosphere, and the reasonable prices. Situated just around the corner from UTM and with courses from $8 to $33, Piatto is the perfect place to celebrate birthdays, graduations, and anniversaries.